A real benefit of living in Florence is the ease with which you can explore other areas of Italy.  For all the things that are wrong, that don’t work, that disappoint, there is one constant about the place.  It is a beautiful country.  Spectacular shoreline and a lot of it, mountain ranges, a few large cities that retain their identity with unique architecture, quirky little hill towns that range from bustling-with-life to near-desertion, and a surprising number of islands.  We are water people and we jump at the chance to visit an island so when the opportunity presented itself on a recent Sunday, off we went.

Ferry from Livorno to Capraia

Along with a group of like-minded friends, we took a high-speed ferry from Livorno to the island of Capraia.  It’s in the Tyrrhenian Sea, about two hours off the coast. The big open sky, salty air and seaspray …… true joy for city people!  The reason for the visit was the Sagra di Totano (Festival of Squid), an annual event which marks the absolute end of the summer season.  And for anyone riding the ferry back to the mainland that night it will most certainly be the last time they visit the island until spring weather calms the sea down again.

Capraia Port

I’m not a particularly enthusiastic squid eater, but food festivals in Italy are treasures.  Whatever they cook is extraordinary, the best of the season, the best of the traditional recipes, the best of the complementary dishes and desserts, and certainly the best wine choice for the event.  The tiny main street along the port was lined with food booths that all featured squid in one way or another.  Fried and served alone, fried and served with sautéed onions in a sweet and sour sauce, cooked slowly with broccoli to become a creamy soup, made into a rich red sauce and served with polenta….one great taste after another and all served with a smooth vermentino wine.
The port was crowded with small vessels and a couple of ferry boats.  It was a summer day replayed in November  and spirits were running high which always happens in Italy when you’re on an island and the sun is shining.

 Many of the port houses, like the pink charmer above, have gardens that spill out toward the water.  The village houses, on the other hand, sit on the mountaintop and are surrounded by greenery and unending views of the sea.  The village is small, very old, wind-battered and picturesque.  Like most Italian islands, Capraia has its own castle (which was once a prison) with impossibly tall walls that I’m sure made escape impossible……although I wonder where would one escape to.   Its lighthouse sits out on its own promontory and is now automated, even though it still houses a keeper.

We love islands, but even we are in awe of the sturdy, independent and intrepid 300 souls that make up the population of this little world.  A beautiful day with friends…..good food, lots of laughter, and another peek at a unique version of Italian life.