CASA VALENTINE…

………WHEREVER WE ARE TOGETHER, WE ARE HOME

Noto, City of Sicilian Baroque

Written By: Arlene Ridolfi Valentine - Jul• 27•16

A cloudy and windy day in southern Sicily does not bode well for beach-going.  It is perfect though for a visit to Noto, Sicilian Baroque at its most outrageous.

Porta Ferdinandea, Noto, Sicily

Porta Ferdinandea, Noto, Sicily

From the minute you walk through the Porta Ferdinandea, you’re strolling through history.  For sure, there are too many tourist venues pandering gadgets and flags and bouncing balls…..but even they can’t take away from the magnificence of what unfolds before your eyes as you walk down the Corso Vittorio Emanuele.  The old city of Noto was destroyed by a violent earthquake in 1693 and the entire city was rebuilt in Baroque style which was the fashion at the time.  I’ll just let the photos do the talking……..

Chiesa San Francesco d'Assisi, Noto, Sicily

Chiesa San Francesco d’Assisi, Noto, Sicily

Just a few steps under the arches and the procession begins…..the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi gets you in shape for the stair-climbing that is to come.   All of the churches and palazzos have grand entries.

Security and Screens Combined

Security and Screens Combined

This amazing building, not even a church or monument, has the most original screens and window moldings, not to mention its rooftop pediment which is literally over the top.

Chiesa di San Carlo al Corso, Noto, Sicily

Chiesa di San Carlo al Corso, Noto, Sicily

A few steps further along and the Church of Saint Carlo looms over the narrow street that is leading you directly to

Duomo, Noto, Sicily

Duomo or La Chiesa Madre di San Nicolo, Noto, Sicily

the Duomo……the Cathedral that looks out over all.  The same Cathedral whose cupola collapsed in 1996 and was rebuilt (just a tad shorter than before),

New Cupola, Cathedral, Noto, Sicily

New Cupola, Cathedral, Noto, Sicily

but still wonderfully frescoed (and hopefully safely reinforced).  Off to a side street, the same street on which there is an infiorita every year in May (when the street is completely covered in flower petals laid out in intricate designs and patterns), there is a palazzo that stands out because of its lavishly decorated balconies……here are three of them, exceptional in their lifelike forms……

Palazzo Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

Palazzo Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

The faces, oddly enough two per support, seem to follow you around……while the next balcony

Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

features lion/horses charging forward……and yet another displays

Palazzo Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

Palazzo Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

female forms rising from the sea.   One more church nearby stood out because of its setting…..

Chiesa di San Domenico, Noto, Sicily

Chiesa di San Domenico, Noto, Sicily

the Church of Saint Domenico sits on a little rise with a magnificent pine tree of equal height right outside its door.
By now, all that stair-climbing and craning of necks looking upward had brought on a fierce hunger which was no problem at all since it was past noon and we knew right where we were going…..

Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

The Trattoria Carmine, kind of nondescript on the outside, had aromas emanating that could not be ignored.  The only sign is a bit high to notice from the street……the entrance is up a flight of stairs….and I can only describe the inside by saying it brought back

Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

a flood of memories of what New York City’s Little Italy was like in the 1960s.  Heaven!  We ate very well here……their own pasta with a sauce of sicilian pachino tomatoes, pesto, eggplant…..and a bit of roasted sausage on the side.  Sadly there are no photos because my camera just plain blew a fuse (too many baroque photos will do that every time)……but at least I got a shot of the sweet, happy and very talented Queen of the Trattoria Carmine Kitchen….

Queen of Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

Queen of Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

Scicli to Ortygia….(Part 2)

Written By: Arlene Ridolfi Valentine - Jul• 22•16

The first thing you do when you wake up in a seafront hotel is to look out over the water.   This is what we saw

Parking Problem, Ortygia, Sicily

Parking Problem, Ortygia, Sicily

when we looked out over the Ortygia waterfront to see what all the truck noise was about.  Two police cars and a tow truck with lifting device showed up at the same time, very skilled workers jumped out, harnessed up this little red Fiat and turned on the hydraulic lift…….

Parking Problem Solved, Ortygia, Sicily

Parking Problem Solved, Ortygia, Sicily

…..and without any exaggeration at all, sped off within five minutes.  Good luck traveller, in finding your car again and paying for your civil disobedience.
Once again being grateful that we are using public transportation on this trip, we set off to have

Cathedral, Ortygia, Sicily

Cathedral, Ortygia, Sicily

a look at Ortygia’s charms.  Its enormous cathedral jumps out at you not only because of its statuary and whiteness, but because it’s in such contrast with the size of everything else around it.  We had to visit, of course,

Quiet Alley, Ortygia,  Sicily

Quiet Alley, Ortygia, Sicily

but we were soon drawn into the surrounding maze of alleys which beg to be investigated.  I love to see the plants that mark entrances to shops or homes, to see the beautiful street lamps, even to see the colorful laundry that adds its own charm.

Via Crocifissa, Ortygia, Sicily

Via Crocifissa, Ortygia, Sicily

Upon turning into via Crocifissa, however, I had to get out the camera because there was so much going on.  For one thing, we were drawn to the tidiness and sweetness of the few tables set up outside a small trattoria.  Then there was the cat headed our way.  But the real grabber for me was the basket of goods being hauled by rope up to the top floor apartment a few doors away.  You can see the  basket just above the roof of the little white Cinquecento parked on the right.

Delivery in Progress

Delivery in Progress, Ortygia, Sicily

As we neared the restaurant and Umberto, the clever, well-dressed, polite maitre’d noticed our approach, the basket was well on its way to the top

Mission Accomplished

Mission Accomplished

where its shirtless recipient welcomed his prize without having to face yet another endless round of stone steps.
Our attention by now was fixed on the menu at Il Nuovo Fermento, and under the watchful eye of Umberto we scanned and made choices very quickly because everything we wanted to eat was right here…..

Caponata, Ortygia, Sicily

Caponata at Il Nuovo Fermento, Ortygia, Sicily

Caponata, one of my absolute favorite things to eat, came out of that kitchen with its aromas preceding it.  I didn’t even share.

Ortygia Antipasto, Sicily

Ortygia Antipasto, Sicily

The other side of the table (and he didn’t share either) was a selection of antipasti, old-style, with local cheese, salami, olives, and a bit of caponata sprinkled with pistachios.  Wow.

Cannolo, Ortygia Style, Sicily

Cannolo, Ortygia Style, Sicily

We were urged to try this dessert……instead of a traditional cannolo rolled into a little cylinder, this was a pistachio laden ricotta filling topped with crumbled cannoli shells, cinnamon and powdered sugar.  We heeded Umberto’s advice…..and we weren’t sorry even though we knew we had a measured amount of time to get back to that hotel room before we would both be comatose.

After Lunch, Ortygia, Sicily

After Lunch, Ortygia, Sicily

On our way, we passed another restaurant’s doorway and came upon a little creature who expressed our feelings perfectly.

Birthday Wishes, Ortygia, Sicily

Birthday Wishes, Ortygia, Sicily

It was a good birthday party……started off right and kept going for the two days we were here.  By the time the food coma wore off, we were boarding that sweet little one-car train again and heading back to Scicli.   Older, wiser, happier……and feeling like we won’t need to eat again for another few days.