Scicli Chugger

Lucky Russ has a birthday in July so we are usually free to have a birthday trip.  This July, since we are already in Sicily, he wanted to visit Ortygia (the little peninsula at the end of Siracusa).  Only fitting, don’t you think, for a retired math teacher to visit the birthplace of Archimedes.  So, we bought tickets and headed out to the Scicli train station early one morning, to be greeted by this sight…….it’s a one track arrangement (the second track is covered with overgrown greenery) which was perfect for the one-car train.  It’s been a long time since I was in a train that shifted gears as it picked up speed, but this little chugger moved at a pretty fast clip, stopping at a few coastal towns on the way to its last stop…..Siracusa.

Ortygia Street, Sicily

Ortygia seems like a Sicilian version of Venice to me.  There are no canals, but there is water all around and the city itself is a warren of narrow and winding alleyways.  We wandered through whatever shady alleys we could find until we emerged

Temple of Apollo, Ortygia, Sicily

at the Temple of Apollo, oddly enough the starting point for the huge fresh market that goes on every morning.  It’s a riot of color

Sicilian Tomatoes

and aromas………even the fish section smells more ocean-y than fishy and it’s jammed with all kinds of

Oysters in Ortygia

specimens……and quite a few characters as well.

Fishmonger and Client, Ortygia, Sicily

It was nearing noon by the time we got to the end of the market and our attention was drawn to a huge crowd of people who seemed to be in line….all milling around a tented area…..

Borderi’s Patient Customers, Ortygia, Sicily 

We joined them when we saw what was going on.  And we had plenty of time to take it all in.  We waited for nearly an hour…….and the show we saw and heard was as nourishing as the indescribable sandwich we left with.

Gaetano’s Show at Borderi, Ortygia, Sicily

Gaetano is the sandwich-making artista here in the family business that is fast becoming famous.  Their focus is simple…….a sandwich of only pure, excellent quality, local meats and cheeses and produce that is made sublime by very original and crafty additions and combinations…….

Not Just A Sandwich

While we all wait in line, clutching our numbers, we are entertained by his swift artistry in combining unusual combinations that are okayed by the current customer…….Fresh mozzarella?  Luscious green and black olives?  A layer of Caponata?  A Dash of something called Mozzarella Crema?  Thinly sliced Ham?  A Dash of Sicilian Orange Marmalade?  A Shaving of Lemon Peel?  A Sprinkling of Fresh Basil Leaves, Shredded by Hand?  We said yes to everything.  The whole family is wonderful, not just Gaetano……but he is exceptionally focused, knowing exactly when to pop on top of the counter a wooden cutting board laden with little tidbits to help keep the hunger of those of us waiting in line at bay for a bit longer.   Meanwhile, he chats….in a couple of languages…..about his wife, his two little children, his mother-in-law (at the cash register)…..and we all feel like we’re at an afternoon party.  By the time we exit with our meal (and every sandwich is at least that) we are happy to have been here for the past 45 minutes………the cost?   5 euro.    Everyone goes back, as often as they can!

Birthday Man, Pondering Life, Ortygia, Sicily, July 18, 2016

Ah, but the day is still young……and there’s lots more Ortygia to see.  Not the least of which is the spectacular Mediterranean Sea……as seen from the rooftop terrace of our hotel…..Domus Mariae Benessere.    To be continued……